Swell-Forecast.com - European SURF forecasting

Wavebuoy reports

The wavebuoy reports give a list of observations, normally every hour, of various parameters at a single location. The most important of these is wave height, but they may also give other information which varies according to the buoy itself.

These reports are real-time measurements and not model forecasts like the wave prediction charts, for example. They are useful if you want to know exactly what the wave height has been doing up to the time of the last report. For example, if it is picking up rapidly at the buoy then you know that within a short time waves will arrive on the coast.

Sometimes the wave height at the buoy does not correspond exactly to what you’ll get on the coast, due to factors such as refraction effects from the continental shelf. However, the trend (whether it’s going up or down) is more important than the height itself.

The best buoys are the ones that measure wave direction as well as height. From these you can tell where the swell will come from when it arrives on the coast. Also, having the direction eliminates the potential problem of seeing huge wave heights at the buoy, but not realising they’re propagating in totally the wrong direction.